What really gets me are the groups of people who apparently are unfamiliar with the terms “single file” and “walk in pairs” and so take up the entire width of the sidewalk regardless of foot traffic going the opposite direction.
Ah this reminds me of our time in Denmark. Except it’s “Sidewalk Chicken”. And no one shares. It’s enough of a phenomenon that it regularly gets commentary on Reddit.
While I appreciate the flexibility of reusing the cobbles, they are miserable to walk on. As you highlighted, slippery—but also so unfriendly to people in wheelchairs, pushing strollers, or with other mobility issues.
Been a while since we've seen a post from you guys! Great to see you again!
The sidewalk skating is always fun (not) and the sidewalks draped over tree roots is a scary reminder of the day I tripped and fell on my way to the gym and cracked out my 4 front teeth 2 years ago. As for the shuffle, we have tourist districts that we try to avoid at all costs (tough to do on an island that IS a tourist destination). Before we bought our house, we lived in an apartment where we had to walk with the tourists every day. I wanted to create a computer game called "Dodge the Clueless Tourists," but my skill is not up to that. You know, the couple who take up ALL of the width of an 8 foot wide sidewalk with their endless wending around, and then, when you find and opening to pass, usually the woman turns, puts out an arm (which clotheslines you) and says "OH LOOK, HONEY!!!!" Now, we arrange our route into town avoiding the worst of the tourist areas.
That's a game I would play! Of course, I know there are times when I'm taking up the entire sidewalk as I look at my phone for some stupid reason and realize I've been drifting to my left or right while walking.
Love this post because it's soo accurate. Add two additional challenges: later in the evening, the sidewalks might also feature garbage bins that are left outside for collection throughout the night, or motorcycles that are parked on the sidewalk...
The issue for me is that there is no simple solution to any of the issues you have raised. In calmer neighborhoods I occasionally walk in the street facing the direction oncoming traffic will come from. On wet days I try to limit my walking. On fall days my focus is more on the sidewalk than most because dead leaves are just the worst. Like many things in Portugal walking requires flexibility of attitude and an understanding that rational solutions aren't always going to play out. Patience and acceptance are my mantras here.
Two things. First, a Portuguese instructor told us those black or white cubes are called paralelapipidos. Spelling is likely incorrect there, but the pee-pee part is a constant source of amusement to this 12-year-old in his 70s.
Secondly, maybe it's a northern thing, but the people blocking the sidewalks are usually smoking, drinking Super Bock, and yelling at each other at the top of their lungs in Portuguese. Yeah the tourists are thronging in central Porto but it's almost always in the touristy areas.
Scott advises never stop. Nope. Wrong. I step to the right because they're coming right at me and they (WHY?) step to their left to maintain their crash with me trajectory. So I stop. Dead in my tracks. I do NOT make eye contact. I make a point of looking at the ground. Sometimes I shrug somewhat annoyed. This is international body-language for "OK. You decide."
Okay, so there is a third thing. I was recently waiting for a bus, facing the street about a foot from the curb. Here comes the bus. This lady comes over and stands right in front of me, practically standing on my toes. The bus door opens easily two meters past us and I mutter in English "What in the world." She turns and gives me some incomprehensible-high speed dressing down in Portuguese and gets on the bus. Boa sorte.
I was just thinking about this! And, in my head, also named it the Sidewalk Shuffle. My rules are simpler:
Rule 1a: Avós e Avôs (and in Alfama and Graça there are many) ALWAYS have the right-of-way.
Rule 1b: Avós e Avôs set the pace. No passing on the right or left until the sidewalk is wide enough to allow it.
Rule 2: People with cameras waiting on the narrowest part of Calcada de São Vincente to get that "iconic" photo of Tram 28 MUST move.
I don't feel like R. da Graça is safe enough to step into (it's narrow and the Tram 28 barely misses the sidewalk in a few segments). Most times I step into store doorways to allow the Avós e Avôs the full sidewalk. Often they will give a little smile or an Obrigada(o).
We have some major inclines in Alfama/Graça. But when it rains it's the downhill direction that's scary. It took me about three weeks this past winter to develop enough trust that my new rainboots had sufficient grip. Until then it took me twice as long to walk to Santa Apolonia 😂
And, speaking of rain, is "Umbrella Etiquette" the next installment? That's the "synchronized swimming event" of pedestrian traffic 😂 🌂 ☂️ 🌂 ☔️
This is so true, and we know many who have fallen with serious injury resulting. We both have fallen, but not really hurt ourselves. Everywhere in Lisbon seems to be dangerous. But, we have walked the streets of other cities, where tiles were not the obstacle, dangerous only because of other impediments.
What really gets me are the groups of people who apparently are unfamiliar with the terms “single file” and “walk in pairs” and so take up the entire width of the sidewalk regardless of foot traffic going the opposite direction.
It is amazing how much space even two people can manage to take up, isn't it?
Ah this reminds me of our time in Denmark. Except it’s “Sidewalk Chicken”. And no one shares. It’s enough of a phenomenon that it regularly gets commentary on Reddit.
While I appreciate the flexibility of reusing the cobbles, they are miserable to walk on. As you highlighted, slippery—but also so unfriendly to people in wheelchairs, pushing strollers, or with other mobility issues.
Sidewalk chicken. Heh. And yeah, this is not an easy city for the mobility impaired.
Been a while since we've seen a post from you guys! Great to see you again!
The sidewalk skating is always fun (not) and the sidewalks draped over tree roots is a scary reminder of the day I tripped and fell on my way to the gym and cracked out my 4 front teeth 2 years ago. As for the shuffle, we have tourist districts that we try to avoid at all costs (tough to do on an island that IS a tourist destination). Before we bought our house, we lived in an apartment where we had to walk with the tourists every day. I wanted to create a computer game called "Dodge the Clueless Tourists," but my skill is not up to that. You know, the couple who take up ALL of the width of an 8 foot wide sidewalk with their endless wending around, and then, when you find and opening to pass, usually the woman turns, puts out an arm (which clotheslines you) and says "OH LOOK, HONEY!!!!" Now, we arrange our route into town avoiding the worst of the tourist areas.
That's a game I would play! Of course, I know there are times when I'm taking up the entire sidewalk as I look at my phone for some stupid reason and realize I've been drifting to my left or right while walking.
Sidewalks so creative; stepping on them is an insult. Take to the streets; it’s the right thing to do!
Walking or driving in Portugal is like being in a videogame! Enjoyed this!
Thanks for reading!
Love this post because it's soo accurate. Add two additional challenges: later in the evening, the sidewalks might also feature garbage bins that are left outside for collection throughout the night, or motorcycles that are parked on the sidewalk...
Oh yes! The "temporary-but-annoyongly-frequent obstacle" challenges. Definitely.
Skirting around cars parked on corners makes me nervous. I just hope that a car won’t be speeding around the corner as I step into the street.
Yeah, there are so many reasons why using the street becomes necessary. And it's frequently scary.
Highly entertaining post!
Thanks for reading along!
The issue for me is that there is no simple solution to any of the issues you have raised. In calmer neighborhoods I occasionally walk in the street facing the direction oncoming traffic will come from. On wet days I try to limit my walking. On fall days my focus is more on the sidewalk than most because dead leaves are just the worst. Like many things in Portugal walking requires flexibility of attitude and an understanding that rational solutions aren't always going to play out. Patience and acceptance are my mantras here.
Patience and acceptance seem like a generally good way to go, yeah.
Two things. First, a Portuguese instructor told us those black or white cubes are called paralelapipidos. Spelling is likely incorrect there, but the pee-pee part is a constant source of amusement to this 12-year-old in his 70s.
Secondly, maybe it's a northern thing, but the people blocking the sidewalks are usually smoking, drinking Super Bock, and yelling at each other at the top of their lungs in Portuguese. Yeah the tourists are thronging in central Porto but it's almost always in the touristy areas.
Scott advises never stop. Nope. Wrong. I step to the right because they're coming right at me and they (WHY?) step to their left to maintain their crash with me trajectory. So I stop. Dead in my tracks. I do NOT make eye contact. I make a point of looking at the ground. Sometimes I shrug somewhat annoyed. This is international body-language for "OK. You decide."
Okay, so there is a third thing. I was recently waiting for a bus, facing the street about a foot from the curb. Here comes the bus. This lady comes over and stands right in front of me, practically standing on my toes. The bus door opens easily two meters past us and I mutter in English "What in the world." She turns and gives me some incomprehensible-high speed dressing down in Portuguese and gets on the bus. Boa sorte.
I was just thinking about this! And, in my head, also named it the Sidewalk Shuffle. My rules are simpler:
Rule 1a: Avós e Avôs (and in Alfama and Graça there are many) ALWAYS have the right-of-way.
Rule 1b: Avós e Avôs set the pace. No passing on the right or left until the sidewalk is wide enough to allow it.
Rule 2: People with cameras waiting on the narrowest part of Calcada de São Vincente to get that "iconic" photo of Tram 28 MUST move.
I don't feel like R. da Graça is safe enough to step into (it's narrow and the Tram 28 barely misses the sidewalk in a few segments). Most times I step into store doorways to allow the Avós e Avôs the full sidewalk. Often they will give a little smile or an Obrigada(o).
We have some major inclines in Alfama/Graça. But when it rains it's the downhill direction that's scary. It took me about three weeks this past winter to develop enough trust that my new rainboots had sufficient grip. Until then it took me twice as long to walk to Santa Apolonia 😂
And, speaking of rain, is "Umbrella Etiquette" the next installment? That's the "synchronized swimming event" of pedestrian traffic 😂 🌂 ☂️ 🌂 ☔️
Love the synchronized swimming concept! 😂
This is so true, and we know many who have fallen with serious injury resulting. We both have fallen, but not really hurt ourselves. Everywhere in Lisbon seems to be dangerous. But, we have walked the streets of other cities, where tiles were not the obstacle, dangerous only because of other impediments.
Glad you've escaped serious injury.
Your pictures say it so well and tell the absolute truth!!