Christmas in Lisbon

Neither white nor holly nor jolly (50)

Amy here. Christmas is my holiday so I’m picking up the pen.

Overall, Christmas here has been hard. When I saw the first Christmas kiosk in the mall being set up in August (selling nativity figures) I thought, jeez! Can’t we get past Halloween? Since then apparently the kiosk sold out and is gone. And I’ve not seen a single other Christmas shop.

The reason I’ve had my beady eye on the lookout is The Great Purge led to some decisions I regret, and planned acquisitions here. See, one of the most important things for me is my tree. Growing up our tree was one we found in the woods, cut down and dragged home, spent hours wrestling into place in a horse bucket filled with rocks. Those trees are never the most beautiful but they are perfect for hanging ornaments. Especially since our ornaments are not the typical balls. Funky, delicate, dangly rules. As does the stories that go along with the ornaments. The topper is from my Gramma’s tree when she decided doing a tree was too much work, and she tatted it herself. The stained glass ball is from the trip to Cape Cod and started our dive into finding a spectacular ornament every year. My mom would spend an hour each night rearranging the ornaments. When she passed, those ornaments came to me. Deciding which ones made the cut for our move was brutal. I’m delighted to say not a one broke. But devastated to say that I did not bring enough. My intent had been to buy new ones once we got here. Sadly, I’ve found very few ornaments here. I’m told to go to the Chinese stores, where everything cheap can be found. Spectacular will not be found there, I’m thinking. I’m not seeing any Christmas shops, although I was very excited about the many Christmas markets. Of the ones we’ve been to, we found one stand selling ornaments. One. Turns out Christmas market means buy stuff to give as a gift from here instead of the mall. I managed to pick up one small wooden star and will try to content myself with what I see as an empty tree.

Our tree in 2021. A funky artificial that comes the closest to recreating a tree from the woods.

2022. Tiny tree. Few ornaments. *sigh*

I also enjoy decorations throughout the neighborhood. Who doesn’t? You know those blocks where people are doing the keeping up with the Jones’s in their Christmas displays? Makes you want to just stroll the street. Here we have a neighbor (no idea who she/he/it is, of course) who has lights in their window. I think that’s the only decoration on our entire block. Around the corner we just found a Santa, which answers the how-does-Santa-get-in-if-there-are-no-chimneys question. As we edge closer to Christmas, more Christmas lights appear on balconies, but generally one a block. Makes it challenging to go for a walk in your neighborhood and pick up the festive spirit!

Credit goes to Scott for spotting the Santas!

We are near to an avenue of high end shops and there are a few displays along there. This one takes the cake. For most retailers, a decorated tree will usually suffice.

The exception: a business on the Avenida da Liberdade, not too far from us. It appeared first week of December. Photo by Amy

Last night’s weather was lovely, 15.5C/60F, and almost dry. Naturally we went for a walk. Turns out the big public spaces downtown are the ones that do it up.

The theme this year is peacocks. This is a pedestrian street near Rossio Square.

A building on Rossio Square.

In Barrio Alto, a new neighborhood to us, the Praça Luís de Camões boasts this welcome.

Christmas is more than decorations though, isn’t it? It’s the Christmas spirit. Until the week of Christmas, few stores play Christmas music. Clerks don’t wish you Merry Christmas. Some seem startled when you offer a Feliz Natal. For those who complain about Christmas creeping too early, here’s your wish!

What Portugal has offered us is the delightful surprise of complex nativities. See if you can find baby Jesus! I’m headed next week to see a truly large one, and can’t wait.

This nativity takes up one of the booths at the Christmas Market at Rossio Square. Hint, look for the spice seller and take a left.

Boas Festas!

Love from Lisbon,

Amy (& Scott)