Amy, the Portuguese in no way lose out. It’s true that the Portuguese treat Easter less as a commercial holiday and more as a religious; we spent Holy Thusday through Easter in Braga this yeao oi
Ah, but have you had a stale marshmallow peep? ;-)
Thank you for all this wonderful education on Easter in Portugal. I was fortunate enough to be in Braga (love that city!) during one of the processions. Amaazing!
The kids and I tried many, many of the chocolate almonds this year. We all agreed the dark chocolate ones are our favorite. Lidl had jelly beans in their regular candy section so my kids were happy with a little memory from their American Easter celebrations in their “baskets” this year.
That's hysterical. I never figured out why bunnies were associated with Easter, nor why we did Easter egg hunts as kids. It certainly has nothing to do with the risen Christ. But, commercialism is commercialism, right? Obviously we saw none of that here in Kazakhstan, although about 20% of the country is Christian. Orthodox, though, so a different thing. Our weather was definitely not as blue sky, but our scenery was stellar. More on that later.
There was relatively little in the way of bunnies, chocolate or plush, in the shops, although if you looked you could find them if you looked. Instead, there were lots of sweets, particularly
… chocolate covered almonds, and lots of “convent sweets”, the sorts of things made with egg yolks and lots of sugar. These last might be a bit of an acquired taste— they don’t really have an American equivalent— but once the taste is acquired they’re addictive.
The north of Portugal has long been the most religious part of the country, and that’s reflected in the way Braga marks Holy Week. The processions clearly have their roots in the Middle Ages and the roving penitents— happily, we saw no self-flagellation. But what moved me more than the farricocos in their black garb as they wielded their giant rattles and on Holy Thursday was the Good Friday procession, with the same costumed people but now in deep mourning. Where the farricocos had leapt about with their rattles and fire on Thursday, on Good Friday they are silent, the dragging their torches the only sound they make. All the other groups from the parade— the “Irmandades”, or religious confraternaties— are silent as well. Unbelievably, so is the crowd lining the streets. The casket containing the Sacrament causes some people to genuflect in the street, again in complete silence
This is not a parade— it’s a religious procession, and the Portuguese appear to take it seriously.
Saturday night is the Easter Vigil. At the historic Sé,
At the history Sé, or Cathedral of Braga, seats fill quickly. The Easter Vigil starts relatively normally (if you can get past the ushers wearing antique frock coats and tricorn hats!). However, so far as I know this is the only place in the world where, as part of the Mass of the Resurrection, a medieval dragon plays an important role…
The dragon, called the “Serpe”, is a wooden effigy of a dragon, a bit less than a meter long, carried on a pole by one of the tricorn-wearing ushers. If it’s the original dragon, it’s probably been used in the Cathedral for 400 years or more!It actually has three thick candles on its “nose”, and has since the early Middle Ages been a representation of evil and the Devil. After the Paschal Candle is placed by the elevated lectern, the dragon three times attacks it, managing to put it out. Each time, though, the light of Christ overcomes the power of darkness, and the light is relit. [Before this Mass, I had seen neither the Paschal Candle snuffed nor a dragon as part of a liturgy!]
If I had any idea how, I’d post a photo of the dragon.
Amy, the Portuguese in no way lose out. It’s true that the Portuguese treat Easter less as a commercial holiday and more as a religious; we spent Holy Thusday through Easter in Braga this yeao oi
Oi
Ato Pop pol
Ah, but have you had a stale marshmallow peep? ;-)
Thank you for all this wonderful education on Easter in Portugal. I was fortunate enough to be in Braga (love that city!) during one of the processions. Amaazing!
Do you need an emergency jelly bean care package? Our local chocolate maker has insanely good chocolate covered gummy bears as well - to die for!
Oh my! Chocolate covered gummy bears! Oh my!
We're not big candy eaters, so we're fine. It was just so startling!
The kids and I tried many, many of the chocolate almonds this year. We all agreed the dark chocolate ones are our favorite. Lidl had jelly beans in their regular candy section so my kids were happy with a little memory from their American Easter celebrations in their “baskets” this year.
I had no idea there was such variety in chocolate almonds!
But don’t forget there’s like 800 different versions of chocolate covered almonds to choose from. Ha.
Exactly!
Do you have a favorite?
That's hysterical. I never figured out why bunnies were associated with Easter, nor why we did Easter egg hunts as kids. It certainly has nothing to do with the risen Christ. But, commercialism is commercialism, right? Obviously we saw none of that here in Kazakhstan, although about 20% of the country is Christian. Orthodox, though, so a different thing. Our weather was definitely not as blue sky, but our scenery was stellar. More on that later.
Happy Easter.
Ah, orthodox. That would explain the lack of observance, but minority status. Looking forward to seeing more scenery pics!
It comes from a pagan celebration co opted by christians
I'll take the Lindt chocolate bunny, thanks! Happy Easter
[Sorry— tech isn’t always my friend!)
There was relatively little in the way of bunnies, chocolate or plush, in the shops, although if you looked you could find them if you looked. Instead, there were lots of sweets, particularly
… chocolate covered almonds, and lots of “convent sweets”, the sorts of things made with egg yolks and lots of sugar. These last might be a bit of an acquired taste— they don’t really have an American equivalent— but once the taste is acquired they’re addictive.
The north of Portugal has long been the most religious part of the country, and that’s reflected in the way Braga marks Holy Week. The processions clearly have their roots in the Middle Ages and the roving penitents— happily, we saw no self-flagellation. But what moved me more than the farricocos in their black garb as they wielded their giant rattles and on Holy Thursday was the Good Friday procession, with the same costumed people but now in deep mourning. Where the farricocos had leapt about with their rattles and fire on Thursday, on Good Friday they are silent, the dragging their torches the only sound they make. All the other groups from the parade— the “Irmandades”, or religious confraternaties— are silent as well. Unbelievably, so is the crowd lining the streets. The casket containing the Sacrament causes some people to genuflect in the street, again in complete silence
This is not a parade— it’s a religious procession, and the Portuguese appear to take it seriously.
Saturday night is the Easter Vigil. At the historic Sé,
[Aargh!]
At the history Sé, or Cathedral of Braga, seats fill quickly. The Easter Vigil starts relatively normally (if you can get past the ushers wearing antique frock coats and tricorn hats!). However, so far as I know this is the only place in the world where, as part of the Mass of the Resurrection, a medieval dragon plays an important role…
I want to hear more about the dragon! I've seen the statue, but don't know the history....
The big one? ;-)
The dragon, called the “Serpe”, is a wooden effigy of a dragon, a bit less than a meter long, carried on a pole by one of the tricorn-wearing ushers. If it’s the original dragon, it’s probably been used in the Cathedral for 400 years or more!It actually has three thick candles on its “nose”, and has since the early Middle Ages been a representation of evil and the Devil. After the Paschal Candle is placed by the elevated lectern, the dragon three times attacks it, managing to put it out. Each time, though, the light of Christ overcomes the power of darkness, and the light is relit. [Before this Mass, I had seen neither the Paschal Candle snuffed nor a dragon as part of a liturgy!]
If I had any idea how, I’d post a photo of the dragon.
UAU!!!! That is amazing! Thank you!